Are You Calling Me Heartless?!
I really love this new dress. It's my second Sewaholic Cambie and I've ironed out some of my fit issues from the first. I admit it still needs a little tweaking. The first one I made was very gaping at the front, and I asked for some advice on Instagram. Apparently I may need to do a hollow chest adjustment. That really made me laugh, it sounds like a polite way to tell someone that they're heartless!
Does It Matter What It's Called?
Then I came across some fitting advice from Sew Me Love in which she basically said (and I'm paraphrasing), who cares what the real name for your fit adjustment is? Just pinch fabric and adjust stuff until it fits! Now that advice I like. It's not like I'm sewing haute couture here is it now?
I know from my first Cambie and also both Lilou dresses I've sewn, that my main fit issue is a wedge of excess fabric around the neckline. I did intend to sew up a quick muslin, do some pinching and redraw my bodice piece, but I just wanted a quick sew this weekend, so I didn't.
All I did was rotate the bodice piece slightly on the fold when cutting it out, so I basically took out the wedge that was bothering me. The only reason I did that was because of the print on this African wax cotton, it's a bit abstract so it worked without disrupting the pattern. However if the fabric had a more uniform kind of print, it wouldn't have worked. Let’s just take a minute to appreciate how awesome this fabric is though. The selvedge said “Veritable Supreme” along it, hence the name of the dress.
I felt pretty pleased with myself, until I realised I'd cut the bodice piece out with the wrong edge of it along the fold. Hahaha. This is what you get for being too engrossed in Agent Carter when cutting out. So I had to cut my bodice in half and sew it back together, hence the seam running down the middle. I reasoned that the pattern of the fabric meant it didn't matter too much and, also, it'd be easy enough to adjust the front if needed.
This was a bit of a cheat as far as a Cambie goes. I'd only bought 2m of this wax fabric as it was intended for the version with a slimmer skirt (View A). I decided on Saturday night that I wanted to make another View B version though, so I had to be a bit creative with squeezing the patterns pieces on, leaving enough fabric for a gathered skirt. I cut the pocket pieces out of my lining fabric to save some fabric too. I also didn't do a fully lined dress, and I left out the waistband as it doesn't suit me. So a bit of time-saving there!
Sewing it was quick and uneventful, and I massively pleased with the invisible zip on this. It went in like a dream and I even had one that matched the colour of my fabric properly this time! I only ended up unpicking one dart too, and it's only because I hadn't left a long enough bit of thread to tie a knot in it. Not bad eh?
As for my fit issues, there's still a bit of work to be done there, the neckline doesn't gape as much as the first Cambie, but it's not perfect. I also think I need to shorten the straps a tiny bit. It definitely fits better than the first though, and I'm going to get a lot of wear out of it. I definitely prefer these kinds of colours, rather than lighter ones.
What do you think?